Time off in Swakopmund, Namibia

I'm on day four of my four day break from the tour. My time off began when crossing the Botswana/Namibia border. Four of us were able to convince a truck driver to bring us four hours to Windhoek--the country's capital. Our bags were stashed with the cargo of 'nappies' or, as we would say, diapers and we set off into Namibia's stark landscape.

This was my first time in an 18-wheeler and I now understand why they own the road. Lumbering nearly 3 meters above the road, the cab's suspension sways with each bump and correction of the wheel. It is like rocking cradle. We sat on the cab's lower bunk and awkwardly slouched below the upper bunk or leaned forward until our haunched went numb. Alternating between comfortable positions took half the ride, the other half was spent decifering the Afrikans braised English spoken by the trucker.

German architecture signaled our arrival in Windhoek. With sleepy legs, we crept from our perch and walked the streets to find a cab to a Backpackers. An evening of beers and great conversations finished my first day of vacation.

My reason for choosing Windhoek as my vacation time, was because of a Chinese embassy. I ask reception where I can find the Embassy. She replies, "I'm not sure where it is, but if you meet these people you can probably find it." She hands me a slip of paper: PROTEST AGAINST CHINA ARMS SHIPMENT TO ZIMBABWE. Perfect.

My visa needs to be arranged before I return to China, so I rise early to beat the protest. Entering the office, the visa officer had other plans. He watched as I filled out my paperwork and then asked for my work permit. "I work all over Africa and have no work visa for any country," I explain.

With most things in Africa, things change and change quickly. He pointed to a pinup printout dated 18 April 2008:

VISAS FOR ENTRY TO CHINA GRANTED ONLY TO NAMBIANS RESIDENTS OR FORGINERS WORKING IN NAMBIA

Thus a week ago, I could have everything straighted for my return to China. After more arguing, I accept defeat and leave the Embassy.