Dune Boarding

A trudge reminiscent of Lawrence of Arabia, brings you to the top of an 80 meter sand dune. From here our guide explains proper form, how unrelated dune boarding is to any other board sport and then teaches us how to the wax the boards. "Don't lean forward or you will bury the lip," he warns. During my first run I find out why burying the lip is bad. As burying the lip buries your lips and the rest of your face into the sand.

After three more runs, he encourages us to try the face first boarding. "Elbows out and pull the front up," he explains "If you start spinning around, drag your feet to correct your direction." A light push sends me speeding down the hill. A waxed piece of particle board separates me from the sand though I feel I am soaring just above the sand. A smaller dune acts as a crash pad, stopping me in my tracks. The guide below shows me the speed gun--65km/h.

We return to our sand boards and try a few more runs. I master the right turn, but have trouble turning left. We take another run on the face first boards from a higher point on the dune. "The record for this run is 82km/hour. I wax my board extra well and I begin my run. They also mentioned that I would get some air on this run, and before I know it, I am in the sky and landing hard on my chest, but I am still clinging on. When I reach the bottom they show me the speed gun, 75km/h. My speed placed me second, the winning speed for the day just one kilometer faster.

We take our last trudge to the top of the dune and the guide asks us which of us are ready to attack the jump. "Jump? Jesus, I just learned how to turn," I think. "Chris, how about you show everyone how it is done?" the guide says. Before I can reply he is tightening my bindings and giving me pointers. "Ok, don't lean forward or you will bury the lip," he says. I already know this and imagine the landing like a sprung mousetrap, my momentum the spring, the board my fulcrum and my face slapping the sand.

"Keep your body centered, don't lean," he continues. Before I ask how to land, he lines me up for the jump and give me a push. I've heard people say that things go in slow motion during a traumatic experience, though this wasn't the case for me, as all I remember is hitting the jump and hearing the thud of my board hitting sand. I stick the landing for a half second and then eat sand--the fall worthy of a sport blooper video.

Time off in Swakopmund, Namibia

I'm on day four of my four day break from the tour. My time off began when crossing the Botswana/Namibia border. Four of us were able to convince a truck driver to bring us four hours to Windhoek--the country's capital. Our bags were stashed with the cargo of 'nappies' or, as we would say, diapers and we set off into Namibia's stark landscape.

This was my first time in an 18-wheeler and I now understand why they own the road. Lumbering nearly 3 meters above the road, the cab's suspension sways with each bump and correction of the wheel. It is like rocking cradle. We sat on the cab's lower bunk and awkwardly slouched below the upper bunk or leaned forward until our haunched went numb. Alternating between comfortable positions took half the ride, the other half was spent decifering the Afrikans braised English spoken by the trucker.

German architecture signaled our arrival in Windhoek. With sleepy legs, we crept from our perch and walked the streets to find a cab to a Backpackers. An evening of beers and great conversations finished my first day of vacation.

My reason for choosing Windhoek as my vacation time, was because of a Chinese embassy. I ask reception where I can find the Embassy. She replies, "I'm not sure where it is, but if you meet these people you can probably find it." She hands me a slip of paper: PROTEST AGAINST CHINA ARMS SHIPMENT TO ZIMBABWE. Perfect.

My visa needs to be arranged before I return to China, so I rise early to beat the protest. Entering the office, the visa officer had other plans. He watched as I filled out my paperwork and then asked for my work permit. "I work all over Africa and have no work visa for any country," I explain.

With most things in Africa, things change and change quickly. He pointed to a pinup printout dated 18 April 2008:

VISAS FOR ENTRY TO CHINA GRANTED ONLY TO NAMBIANS RESIDENTS OR FORGINERS WORKING IN NAMBIA

Thus a week ago, I could have everything straighted for my return to China. After more arguing, I accept defeat and leave the Embassy.

An Angel's Gaze

Things have been difficult the past month on TDA.  It is the same day in day our grind and it is finally taking its toll on the staff.  I suppose you could say I am burnt out.  Physically I am more lean and fit, but my body is wearing down at the same time.  Right now I am sick with Bronchitis and I rarely get sick.  Nearly every experience at the beginning of the trip inspired me to write an update and bring you along for the ride.  My little notebook has not been written in since Ethiopia though I carry it with me nearly every day. 

 

Maybe it was the break in Arusha that sent me on my downward writing spiral.  Everything I have written as of late, has been work related, and it is getting more and more difficult to write as the trip wears on.  Call it writers block or whatever you would like, but I will do my best to get in a few more updates before this trip is over.

 

Visiting Victoria Falls was an enthralling and inspiring experience that would be a shame to no write about.  When Dr. Livingstone, the first European to cast their gaze upon Victoria falls, inquired about the falls to a local chief, the chief asked Dr. Livingstone if he had ‘Smoke that Thunders’ in his homeland.  In the doctor’s journal he wrote of the falls that they were more spectacular than anything found in England and that angels in flight must have cast their eyes upon the falls.

 

The falls are truly magnificent.  I’ve seen the highest waterfall in the world (Angel Falls, Venezuela) and the waterfall that dumps the most amount of water (Niagara falls).  However both pale in comparison to the 1.7km stretch of falls separating Zimbabwe and Zambia.

 

A walkway allows visitors to walk along the falls, giving an impressive view.  Not only is it a great view, but you get absolutely soaked walking through the park.  From a narrow bridge, water shoots vertically from the pits of the falls.  The bottom is impossible to see because of the haze of water vapor flailing in every direction.  Along with dozens of rainbows, Victoria Falls wayward water vapor creates a microclimate hosting tropical vegetation.  That evening, we took a two hour cruise along the upper reaches of the Zambezi River, and in the distance we could spot the falls from the plums of water vapor rising high above.

 

Walking along Victoria Falls reminds me why I am here.